Choosing the right leather is one of the most important decisions you will make when starting a leatherworking project. The type of leather you select directly affects the durability, appearance, ease of construction, and overall success of the finished piece. Whether you are creating a simple keychain, a structured tote, or a detailed floral-tooled design, understanding leather fundamentals will help you achieve professional results.

Understand Leather Tanning Types

The tanning process determines how leather behaves, looks, and ages over time. The three most common types are:

Vegetable-tanned leather
This leather is tanned using natural plant extracts and is a favorite among leathercrafters. It is firm, easy to cut and shape, and ideal for tooling, stamping, carving, and dyeing. Vegetable-tanned leather develops a rich patina over time, making it perfect for belts, wallets, and decorative projects.

Chrome-tanned leather
Chrome-tanned leather is softer, more flexible, and often pre-dyed in vibrant colors. It resists water better than vegetable-tanned leather but cannot be tooled. This type is well suited for bags, garments, and accessories where softness and drape are important.

Combination-tanned leather
This leather blends vegetable and chrome tanning processes, offering some structure with added softness. It is commonly used for handbags, footwear, and everyday accessories.

Choose the Appropriate Leather Weight

Leather thickness, measured in ounces, plays a major role in usability:

• 2–3 oz: Lightweight; ideal for keychains, charms, lining, and small accessories

• 4–5 oz: Medium weight; suitable for wallets, journal covers, and soft bags

• 6–8 oz: Heavyweight; best for belts, straps, and structured projects

• 9 oz and up: Extra heavy; commonly used for saddlery and armor

Selecting the correct weight ensures your project holds its shape without being difficult to sew or finish.

Consider the Project’s Function

Always match the leather to the intended use of the item:

• Everyday accessories (wallets, key fobs): Medium-weight vegetable- or chrome-tanned leather

• Decorative or tooled pieces: Vegetable-tanned leather only

• Soft goods (pouches, bags): Chrome-tanned or combination-tanned leather

• Quick gifts and beginner projects: Pre-finished leather in lighter weights

Thinking about wear, flexibility, and structure early will save time and materials.

Examine Grain and Finish

Leather grain affects both aesthetics and durability:

• Full-grain leather: Highest quality; retains natural surface and ages beautifully

• Top-grain leather: Slightly corrected surface; durable and consistent

• Genuine leather: Lower grade; suitable for practice but less durable

Also consider whether the leather is natural, dyed, embossed, or finished, as this impacts tooling, dye absorption, and edge finishing.

Start Small and Experiment

If you are new to leathercraft, begin with smaller projects and test pieces. Sampling different leathers allows you to learn how each type cuts, punches, stitches, and finishes. Over time, you will develop preferences that align with your tools, style, and project goals.